Island Cuisine in the Turks and Caicos Islands
Where When How Turks & Caicos Islands January / February 2010
Island Cuisine – Jerk, Jicama & Other Gibberish
Exploring and experiencing the culture and cuisine of any far–flung destination is one of life’s most intriguing and delicious pleasures... and while the anticipated fare at many destinations is obvious from a culinary standpoint, you may pause and wonder just what type of gastronomy awaits you in the Turks and Caicos Islands. In a word – fusion. An extraordinary and perpetually evolving cuisine influenced by this archipelago’s variegated history and its players – a global mosaic of people that have either passed through or settled permanently. In addition, our adventurous and eclectic compilation of chefs each contribute their own individual origins, cultures and talents where even today, every chef thrives on the knowledge and understanding that necessity is still indeed, the mother of invention – an essential skill that constantly keeps them on their toes, frequently drawing on their creativity to adapt their craft.
Tuna Tartare at Magnolia Restaurant and Wine Bar
The outcome of this diversity and these distinctive contributions is perceptible in every one of our island menus that sometimes results in the appearance of obscure ingredients, curious preparation techniques and mysterious dishes that may create somewhat of an enigma for you, the diner. I’m here to take the curiosity out of the cuisine and the mystery out of the menus and to encourage you to try virtually everything you can sink your teeth into! Be adventurous – not apprehensive and your palate will be handsomely rewarded.
The Inoffensive ‘Jerk’
Risotto Al Fruitti di Mare at Bella Luna Ristorante
‘Jerk’ dishes are infamous here, pervading virtually every island menu from native fare to the finest dining and everything in between. A dynamic combination of spices inundates the very fibers of the meat, offering up an undeniable and pleasurable heat with distinctive flavours. A zesty and generous combination of spices is typically but not restricted to allspice, scotch bonnet peppers and thyme––used as a dry rub, or with the addition of vinegar, soy sauce and cooking oil as a marinade. The meat is grilled low and slow, saturating it with luscious flavours and infusing the air with mouthwatering aromas. A labour of love, I never tire of traversing island establishments sampling and savouring each and every jerk creation. But don’t take my word for it... you be the judge... and have your own Jerk Off – so to speak! Try them all and relish in the multitude of exciting dishes featuring this unique taste sensation. Savour the heat of Jerked Wings or Jerk Mahi Nachos at the Tiki Hut; Spicy Jerk Wings or Fish Tacos at the Cabana Bar & Grille; Jerk Chicken and Pineapple Salad at the Sharkbite or a Jerk Combo Sampler – a tempting trio at Horse–Eye Jack’s. Even Provo’s ‘Gaelic–Caribbean experience’ Danny Buoy’s gets in the act with their Jamaican Jerk Chicken Wrap. Jerk is equally at home fine dining where a Jamaican Jerk Jus candidly consorts with Coyaba’s Pork Osso Buccolettes and Anacaona’s Pan Roasted Rum and Jerk Marinated Chilean Sea Bass also features our own Bambarra Rum. Truly transcending all borders Jerk’s universal appeal even finds its way to accompany Bella Luna’s Conch Frittelle in Chef Cosimo’s ‘Secret Jerk Mayonnaise Sauce’... now, that’s Italian!
Jicama & Other Gibberish
Carpaccio di Manzo at Baci Ristorante
Our near perfect and predictable climate... a.k.a. just another day in paradise... is perfectly hospitable to holiday makers, but not so hospitable to agriculture. Our local hydroponics farm provides a wonderfully fresh assortment of greens, herbs and tomatoes, but for the most part all of our fruits and vegetables are imported. The upshot – we’re able to experience a variety of unusual, tropical and exotic fruits and vegetables. The downside – they may not be recognizable to you. Extensive backgrounds and experience in other foreign destinations have incited several of our Great Chefs of Provo to enthusiastically introduce these sometimes peculiar and mystifying ingredients to your table.
To take the mystery out of the mysterious when it comes to unconventional and exotic ingredients, I call on the Czar of Caribbean Cuisine himself, Chef Paul Newman of Coyaba. More than twenty years of hands–on experience living and working in many a sun–drenched locale throughout the Caribbean has put Paul on the cutting edge of Caribbean cuisine, continuously introducing a profusion of exceptional and unusual ingredients to his always evolving and avant garde menu. Eager to share his knowledge of some of these obscure elements Paul was quick to draw my attention to the fact that many have been introduced by none other than Captain Bligh. He introduced breadfruit to the Caribbean from Tahiti in 1793 – used in place of a starch, it is only edible when cooked, baked, grilled, fried or boiled. Ackee, introduced to the West Indies from West Africa can be poisonous if not fully mature and open, but once ripened and cooked, Paul reveals it bears a resemblance to scrambled eggs and is neutral in flavour. Coyaba also boasts the Otaheite apple – another import from Bligh that ranges in colour from pink to ruby red. It’s mainly eaten fresh – diced into a salsa or relish or blended into a refreshing beverage. Cooked, it can be poached in red wine and it imparts a lovely sweetness to Coyaba’s Slow Braised Pork Osso Buccolettes. Another curios component that aroused my curiosity was Coyaba’s Kurobuta Crispy Pork Belly. An heirloom breed, Kurobuta is the Japanese term for black hog – hailed to be leaner, darker in colour and richly flavourful. According to Paul, he insists that pork belly is, “an amazing truly alternative cut. Every preparation results in something special... cured or into bacon or pancetta; roasted until the skin is crispy; confit then deep–fried or braised until melting tender”. Smitten and salivating following that delicious dissertation, I’m now a devout Kurobuta devotee! I suppose you could reason that Kurobuta is what Wagyu is to beef.
Sizzeling Steak Fajitas at Somewhere
O’Soleil’s ‘culinary maven’ Chef Lauren Callighen is a fore–runner of creativity in her métier. Imaginative, resourceful and ingenious she has conceived some of the island’s most remarkable dishes engaging some of the more unusual ingredients earning her an avid and enthusiastic following. I asked her to explain how she integrates tamarind into one of her creations that I am quite passionate about – Roasted Pumpkin and Local Tamarind Soup. Apparently, I’m not alone in my passion, as Lauren jokes that if this popular dish ever left the menu, she might lose 80% of her customers! Tamarind, she explains, is a tree fruit that is grown in warm climates and at times, local tamarind is even available from North Caicos. The fruit itself comes in a pod that usually carries 3 or 4 seeds surrounded by flesh. The fruit is mashed into a pulp and strained of all seeds and fibers leaving a smooth product that can be sweet or tart depending on the ripeness with the consistency of a date. Lauren uses the green or sour tamarind to complement the sweetness of the pumpkin, also drawing on the sweetness of Maple Syrup (she’s a Canadian gal!) in her celebrated Roasted Pumpkin and Tamarind Soup.
It is said that Christopher Columbus named the papaya (a.k.a. paw–paw), ‘the fruit of the angels’ – ripe and tender with an absolutely sweet and delightfully vibrant orange flesh. At The Vix, Executive Chef Steven Dray creates a refreshing and colourful Cucumber and Papaya Linguine to flaunt alongside Sticky Braised Short Ribs.
Coffee Rubbed Tuna in Asian Marinade at Bay Bistro
The mango’s tender yet firm, sweet yellow flesh not only adds a splash of colour, but also an incredible naturally sweet taste that’s extremely versatile. Hemingway’s Pan Seared Local Red Snapper looks appetising and appealing as it lounges lazily in a pool of rich and creamy Mango Beurre Blanc; while at Bay Bistro mango appears as a delectable Chutney in perfect company with crispy Coconut–Crusted Conch. The Tiki Hut creates an ambrosial Curry Mango Oil made with a mango puree while Parallel23 taps in on the fruit’s alluring sweetness to complement the Regent Palms Signature Shrimp Cocktail with Mango Horseradish Sauce; an unexpected combination that undeniably ‘works’.
Commonly confused with the banana, the plantain is starchy and is typically used as a vegetable in any one of its three stages of ripeness – green, yellow and black, with the latter being at its sweetest. You’ll find it addictive as plantain ‘chips’ in a few of the local eateries, as well as thinly sliced and fried as a delicious and attractive garnish to many entrees. Equally addictive, I dare you to resist the temptations of crunchy yucca crisps and delectable yucca chips served as tasty sides at Parallel23. Another starch, yucca is quite similar to a potato, often added to soups and stews.
And finally, let’s talk jicama... pronounced hee–camma; this amazing root vegetable may look like a turnip but its white flesh has the subtle flavour of an apple or pear. Used raw it’s wonderful in a cooling ‘slaw’ or is often cooked in side dishes.
Tartare, Carpaccio & Ceviche
North African Moussaka at Lemon
Typically featured as appetiser selections; the basic common thread is that they are prepared simply ‘au natural’, but don’t let that thwart your decision to experience some of the freshest, most fabulous textures and exquisite flavours. Tuna Tartare is the frequent find here although it can also be made with beef. The fish (or beef) is finely chopped and served with spices and complementing sauces. Magnolia’s Tuna Tartare has been an island favourite for years; Bagatelle boasts a beautiful Blue Fin Tuna Tartare with a compelling companion – a Citrus Avocado Salad; and Vino Tiempo’s Asian Tuna Tartare is an incredible combination of flavours and textures stacked between crispy fried wontons. Amanyara offers up a delicate Tuna Tartare with Salmon Roe and even a vegetarian rendition – Raw Tomato and Avocado Tartare with Almonds and Agano Oil.
For a delicate, almost diaphanous Carpaccio, beef or fish is sliced skillfully thin and characteristically doused with olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and decadent shards of rich and nutty Parmesan. Caicos Café’s Tuna Carpaccio is absolutely legendary in these parts; while Baci’s beef version of Carpaccio di Manzo is extraordinary. Parallel23 proffers a unique taste with Coffee & Cocoa Cured Beef Carpaccio, while The Mango Reef offers up both – beef or tuna at a very palatable price. Not officially ‘Carpaccio’ these offerings are rare–seared – Togarashi Seared Ahi Tuna at the Grill Rouge; and a must–try and decade–long favourite, Coffee Rubbed Tuna at Bay Bistro.
Here on Provo, Ceviche is commonly served using our own conch, fresh from the sea, but other fish can also be used. Bite–size pieces of conch are marinated in a citrus juice – frequently lime. It is alleged that a ‘chemical reaction’ takes place when the flesh is marinated in the acidic juice causing the flesh to become firmer and lose its translucency, similar to being ‘cooked’. Scientific mumbo–jumbo aside, the result is delectable. Try Conch Ceviche at Opus or Caicos Café and “nobu style” at Amanyara.
Sushi vs. Sashimi
Char-Grill Black Angus Rib-Eye at Tiki Hut
Good fortune has indeed been ours for the island of Provo boasts not just one... but two world–class sushi restaurants with a repertoire to rival even the finest establishments in larger cosmopolitan cities. Bright colours and beautiful designs make this cuisine a veritable work of art where a surfeit of sushi creations, both cooked and raw can be enjoyed at Yoshis, Matsuri Sushi Bar and even spotted on a few other island menus.
Sashimi is simply raw sliced fish but the taste is anything but simple... it melts on your tongue like budda. If you want to know what ‘fresh’ really tastes like, try it at Yoshis; a marinated Seed Crusted adaptation awaits at Parallel23 or double your pleasure with a combo of Conch and Tuna Sashimi at Caicos Café.
A Cornucopia of Condiments!
Surf & Turf Burger with Garlic Aioli at The Saltmills Cafe
One of the joys of eating is diversity... where virtually any basic key ingredient can be transformed into something unexpectedly extraordinary or utterly exotic by the mere addition of a complementing condiment or sauce.
If I had to name one condiment that has evolved leaps and bounds, propagating and multiplying at an alarming rate and appearing in never–before seen combinations, it has to be salsa. No longer known as just a spicy concoction with a chopped tomato base habitually served with tortilla chips, salsa has become companionable with fruits, vegetables, coconut and even tequila. A great way to beautify, titivate and add a refreshing punch to dishes, try these new–fangled creations like Tequila Salsa served alongside Grouper Vera Cruz at Hemingway’s; enjoy Tiki Hut’s lively Mango Salsa with Blackened Chicken Quesadillas and Avocado Salsa with Mille Feuille of Wahoo also at the Tiki Hut. Salsa Verde adds pizzazz to the Grilled Tenderloin of Beef at Bay Bistro; Grilled Tiger Shrimps get a tropical boost with a Tomato and Coconut Salsa at Magnolia and a luscious and exotic Tropical Fruit Salsa is an apropos companion to the Grilled Swordfish at Grace’s Cottage.
Common in Indian dishes to calm the heat and add balance to the dish, Raita (pron. rye–tah) is yogurt based with the addition of chopped vegetables and spices. True to form a Cucumber–Tomato Raita tames the heat of Opus’ Thai Style Red Chicken Curry while Lemon Mint Raita is a match made in heaven with Vino Tiempo’s Marinated Angus Strip Beef Kabob.
East now meets West on a regular basis, with many Japanese delicacies commonly appearing on menus. Ponzu, a tangy, citrus–based Japanese sauce is often used for dipping but lends itself equally well to marinades and dressings. Vino Tiempo serves it with Asian Tuna Tartare; and Anacaona’s Tuna Tempura Roll gets a fragrant and sweet infusion with Fennel and Citrus Ponzu.
When it comes to sauces, there is no denying that the French are responsible for so many of the appetising, tempting and flavorsome sauces we enjoy today. Coulis (pron. koo–lee) can be made from pureed fruits or vegetables with fruit coulis accompanying desserts, and the latter complimenting meats. Grace’s Cottage’s decadent Tuna and Foie Gras Wrap flaunts a Smoke Pepper Coulis; a unique and complimentary companion indeed.
Tuna and Foie Gras Wrap in Nori Tempura with Smoke Pepper Coulis at Grace’s Cottage
Concasse can relate to almost any ingredient, but most oftentimes, we’re talking tomatoes. Pronounced con–cass–eh, this basically means coarsely chopping. With tomato concasse the tomatoes are skinned after parboiling and the pips removed as they can tend to add bitterness. The pulp is chopped and sometimes even briefly sautéed with garlic or shallots. The result is a very concentrated tomato flavour with no ‘wateriness’. Parallel23 offers this aromatic and flavourful concasse kick together with Sauce Choron on their Sides and Toppings menu leaving the pairing creativity up to you.
Another condiment that has developed to amazing proportions is Aioli, (pron. eye–o–lee). Uncomplicated and effortless to make, it is simply an emulsion of garlic and olive oil that adds a rich, smooth flavour. A lip–smacking Garlic Aioli adds a pleasurable tang to the Surf & Turf Burger at The Saltmills Cafe. On the heels of Aioli, Remoulade tenders similar textures and flavours as it is often aioli–based. Hemingway’s adds the zestiness of lemons and the saltiness of capers to their remoulade to flatter their Plantain Encrusted Mahi Mahi.
Veloute (ve–loo–tay) is known as one of the ‘mother’ sauces, and if velvety is the first word that comes to mind, you nailed it. A light stock is thickened with a roux (butter and flour) and is served with many dishes or becomes the base for other sauces. Anacaona adds pesto to their veloute in the company of Mojo Grilled Caicos Lobster Tail; while Grace’s Cottage offers up a Watercress and Potato Veloute with Poached Egg. The possibilities are endless.
For those of you with a taste for the wild side look for Harissa – (Pron. hah–ree–sah) this sizzling chili paste flatters just about anything from the Pan–Seared Island Grouper at Grace’s Cottage to many of the exotically spiced Moroccan inspired dishes at Lemon.
Going Native
You owe it to yourself to venture off the beaten track and experience casual island fare. The incredible aromas, relaxed atmospheres and memorable foods should be a part of everyone’s vacation memories. Right smack dab on the beach enjoy Horse–Eye Jacks and Da Conch Shack, or head downtown to Keneisha’s – she’s cooking up a bit of everything – Spanish, Italian and French!
What’s New?
Recently opened, The Vix at the Regent Village promises ‘high–end modern cuisine’ in a ‘high class setting without all the formality of fine dining’. An evolving menu features the finest ingredients from the islands and afar with a unique focus on traceability and provenance. Opening in February 2010, Veranda’s signature dining experience, Marin will ignite all of your senses – gourmet cuisine with local and Caribbean influences with a focus on fresh seafood prepared by Chef Dharma Nand with the most dazzling and dramatic ‘elevated’ Grace Bay panorama. Also at Veranda, chill at the grill – on the lighter side Grill Bleu flaunts all day al fresco dining featuring a Tandoori Oven. And just in case you didn’t already know... The Sand Dollar at Seven Stars invites you to indulge poolside where fresh and flavourful island–inspired dishes are served all day – and evenings, if you crave ‘the island’s freshest seafood and steak’ in a casual yet elegant and intimate setting, treat yourself to The Terrace, another surreptitious Seven Stars find! The Anchorage boasts relaxed and informal dockside dining overlooking Turtle Cove Marina where an impressive flotilla of assorted marine vessels peacefully rocking at moor is a pleasurable perspective for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
What’s More...
While each venue offers their own alluring niche within its tropical milieu, there are a few unexpected locales worthy of mention; Fairways Bar and Grill overlooks the immaculate and inspiring emerald greens of the Provo Golf Club; romance flourishes under a canopy of swaying palm fronds in the middle of a coconut grove at Coco Bistro; delight in Moroccan cuisine with Mediterranean influences – in a dramatic tent–style ambiance at Lemon; or, feast your eyes as well as your palate with a taste of Provo’s south side at Las Brisas, right on the edge of Chalk Sound National Park. And for the ultimate in unmitigated style with an unparalleled and ethereal ‘Zen–like’ mood, discover Amanyara – a truly nonpareil experience.
If that wasn’t already enough food for thought... read on. Blessed with an abundance of dining options, we also enjoy the more obvious... incredible Italian dining dockside at Baci Ristorante; fine Italian dining at Bella Luna; relaxed and casual Italian dining at Pizza Pizza La Terrazza or convenient take–out at Pizza Pizza. Savour the authentic taste of Bangkok at the Thai Orchid Restaurant or Oriental dining featuring Chinese cuisine at Chez Wou. Somewhere On the Beach offers Mexican fare and a few north of the border mainstays and there’s even a New York style deli – Angela’s Top O’the Cove serving up what I consider to be the best Famous Steak and Onions. Steps from the shores of Grace Bay Beach unwind, relax and enjoy the popular fare at Ocean’s Club’s Seaside Café and Cabana Bar & Grille. Popular watering holes and eateries in Ports of Call include Jimmy’s Dive Bar and Calico Jack’s. There’s even an ice–cream parlour – fittingly called Giggles, where on most days, the eager grown–up customers outnumber the little folks; and Island Scoop where the ‘big kids’ can also indulge in Specialty Coffees. You can even get ‘gourmet’ in your grocery jaunt with gourmet coffee and a bite at Graceway Gourmet & Java Bar.
While respites from Provo for me are rare, when I do travel, I take great pleasure in sampling the culture and cuisine wherever I go. But it doesn’t take long before I yearn to don my ruby flip–flops, tap 3 times and say, “There’s no taste like home!”
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