Opus Wine Bar Grill Reviewed November / December 2009
Opus Wine Bar Grill is located at The Ocean Club Plaza
An inspiring and harmonious fusion of dazzling dishes – an appealing and extensive selection of wines and an engaging and absolutely delightful atmosphere... this is the fundamental success behind Opus, the culinary conception and undeniable forte of proprietors Tony Arata and Abby Marlow. No strangers to the business of creating an exceptional dining experience, Tony and Abby make it look effortless, and having recently celebrated Opus’ first outstanding year... it is indeed a success that is certain to be the first of many.
Mozzarella Filled Vine Tomato with Garlic Parmesan Toasts
While I consider Opus to embody the essence of al fresco dining, an elegant and sophisticated ambiance can also be experienced indoors in the cool and stylish bar and lounge – a popular meeting place where you can take pleasure in a pre–dinner cocktail or dine beneath a striking vaulted ceiling in comfortable and intimate booths. But outdoors, an almost magical and captivating mood prevails in the lush, tropical garden where candlelit tables are scattered beneath the majestic limbs of illuminated ficus trees and guests are serenaded nightly by the agreeable arias of crickets, and of course, Tony’s always appealing and contemporary playlist.
The Opus menu is in a word – fabulous, offering a remarkable selection of evening specials featuring a wine pairing recommendation for each course, in addition to soups, salads, tasting plates and entrees all affectionately and skillfully prepared by Chef Rollie (Rolin Almonte). Mulling over the menu and an aromatic basket of savoury and crusty garlic bread fingers, my favorite dining companion hopelessly confessed, “It always happens to me here, I can’t decide!” She was indeed, in good company.
Yellow Fin Tuna Spring Rolls with Lime and Soy Dipping Sauce
It’s always a personal pleasure to see dishes featuring arugula, and while its delicate, peppery flavours have been enjoyed and revered for centuries, it has only been in recent years that this amazing and versatile ‘green’ has appeared locally. Blissfully finding its way onto a significant number of island menus, and many of Opus’ dishes, I adore its unparalleled and robust zest that flatters everything from salads to pastas, risottos and even pizzas. An evening special of Fresh Sautéed Lobster over Baby Arugula proffered an immediate and positive, “Wow!” The lobster audaciously flaunted its great flavours right away, followed seconds later by a pleasurable burst of heat compliments of the Mango Chili Dressing. Opus has composed a delicious medley of salads including their Grilled Fennel and Warm Goat Cheese on Arugula. Enhanced by the concentrated and complex flavours of a Balsamic Dressing, my tastebuds certainly hit a crescendo the moment the warm, grilled fennel touched my palate. Grilling caramelized the tender fennel proffering unmatched sweet and delicate licorice flavours, further amplified by the addition of rich, creamy and tangy goat cheese – all perfectly lounging upon a bed of those fabulous arugula leaves soaking up the richness and intensity of the balsamic dressing. Nothing can match the incredible depth of a red, vine–ripened tomato that has never seen the inside of a refrigerator. Add the mild and velvety softness of mozzarella and you’ve got an uncomplicated match made in culinary heaven – served with deliciously decadent Garlic Parmesan Toasts this was a striking presentation and taste sensation. From the Tasting Plates, my husband raved over the Yellow Fin Tuna Spring Rolls, best described as a wrapped tuna fillet with generous quantities of succulent, melt–in–your–mouth tuna, shredded green onions and carrots. A brilliant match to the tangy and tasty Lime and Soy Dipping Sauce.
Pan Seared Tuna with Rum and Soy Dipping Sauce
Noteworthy soups include a Vietnamese Beef Broth with Noodles, Scallion and Cilantro; an Island Style Red Conch Chowder and a must–try Roasted Pumpkin and Coconut Soup – silky smooth, rich and luscious. Added Tasting Plates take in Blue Mussels Steamed in Wine and Garlic with Tomato Romesco Sauce; Flash–Fried Shrimps with Sizzling Cilantro Oil; Chili Steak Wraps with Hummus; Conch Ceviche and Caramelised Pear with Gorgonzola, Arugula and Walnuts.
August 1st through March 31st is the much–sanctified season of our local Caribbean spiny lobster – tender–sweet and moist it is indeed a ‘marine cuisine’ treasure. Be it simply grilled or prepared in a myriad of mouth–watering ways, it is unsurpassed and incomparable to virtually another other undersea delicacy. Tonight’s evening special of Lobster Fettuccini proffered liberal chunks of that sweet, tender lobster atop flawlessly al dente (to the tooth) pasta bathed in an extraordinarily rich Creamy Garlic Sauce... rendering this diner at a loss for words. Finally, after incessant coaxing, this exquisite coming together of tastes was best expressed as, “Comfort food for the rich and famous”! While lobster is a delicacy of the surf, I am often hopelessly yet equally captivated when it comes to the delicacies of the turf and the always extravagant experience of a Black Angus Filet of Beef. Perfectly grilled medium–rare, the incredible beef flavours were heightened to an amazing intensity with Roasted Garlic and a Horseradish Demi–Glace – horse radish is indeed beef’s ideal and most compatible bed–fellow. The generous filet casually sprawled upon a scrumptious bed of potatoes with an assortment of tender–crisp vegetables, and plantain ribbons to complete a perfect presentation. Pan–searing is the only way to prepare tuna... and a ‘rare’ pan–seared filet will deliver amazing results by forming a ‘crust’ of fabulous flavours and tantalising textures. Partnered with an extraordinary dipping sauce of Rum and Soy and served with sticky rice, this was indeed a menu frontrunner. Remember my dining companion who couldn’t decide? Ultimately opting for a tasting plate for her main course, she hit the gastronomic jackpot with the Pan–Seared Scallops with Citrus Ginger Butter and Crispy Leeks. Leaving her out–and–out tongue–tied for a reaction, this stacked creation atop a crispy deep–fried poppadum together with those incredible crispy leeks finally delivered an explicit and commanding “wow” closely and definitively followed by her trademark, “fabulous”!
Dessert at Opus includes Chocolate Truffle Torte
A dreamy Cognac Cream Sauce accompanies the 14oz Bone–In Rib–Eye, while a Kalmata Olive Tapenade is an ideal coupling with the Pan–Fried Atlantic Salmon. Rounding out the entrée selections, Thai Style Red Chicken Curry, Herb Marinated Pork Chop, Mahi–Mahi en Papillote and a choice of three pasta dishes.
A 2006 Jekel Pinot Noir from California offered up heady berry, herb and spice flavours with a long and lovely finish; followed by a ‘meatier’ Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir from New Zealand, with pronounced cherry and peppery notes.
Indulgences in after–dinner desserts are a must. An individually baked Apple Tart with a big dollop of vanilla ice–cream took this self–professed ‘apple pie addict’ back in time... “a slice of homemade just like Grandma used to make”. Treat your sweet–tooth to a Dark and Decadent Chocolate Truffle Torte with whipped cream and a sprig of mint; Creamy Cheesecake with a berry topping; the always popular Key Lime Pie or a to–die–for Caribbean Rum Cake with a deliciously warm Myer’s Caramel Sauce. Speaking of rum, Opus also offers a selection of specialty rums, scotch and cognacs. I opted to drink my dessert with a smooth and mellow glass of Clement 10 year old rum from Martinique, while a few of my fellow diners took pleasure in Specialty Coffees. The Opus coffee boasts Grand Marnier and Frangelico, while The Boheme featured Bailey’s Irish Cream and Drambuie – absolutely enjoyable and unreservedly luxurious.
Our evening was a seamless coming–together of all the anticipated and expected elements one desires when dining out, including conscientious and attentive service. Tony and Abby have indeed created their own masterful composition here at OPUS... a culinary concerto that was quite simply, poetry for the palate!
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