Coyaba Restaurant Reviewed January / February 2010
Coyaba in Grace Bay at The Caribbean Paradise Inn
“If the menu excites the Chef, it will excite the customer.” This pragmatic but effective culinary philosophy is just one of the many key elements instrumental to the success that has been Coyaba’s for more than a decade. And when the Chef in question is Paul Newman, I have no reservations that the customer will be ecstatic!
An Elegant Gazebo Style Setting
Affectionately dubbed the Czar of Caribbean cuisine, Paul brandishes a distinctive edge that you simply will not find anywhere else. More than twenty years of experience living and working in several exotic locales has made Paul a leading authority when it comes to a host of indigenous Caribbean ingredients. Contemporary and avant garde, Coyaba’s ‘New World Fusion Cuisine’ menu may read like a gastronomical bestseller, but the emphasis is on the dining experience; relaxed but with a pleasurable degree of service and professionalism. Unlike many of Provo’s large–scale resorts operating their own on–site restaurants, Coyaba is one of a handful of independents; the heart and soul of Paul and his wife Karen, whose unwavering passion, dedication and commitment to Coyaba is a tangible and ongoing labour of love. At front–of–house, Karen is quite simply ubiquitous; delighted to answer questions, offer suggestions or pairing recommendations and of course, to regale you with the evening’s ‘verbal’ specials – further gustatory delights that only serve to confound, beguile and bewilder diners agog with anticipation. The Classic Signature Menu features many revered and respected dishes, ingredients and preparation techniques with a devoted and loyal following in the company of the always enticing and tempting Daily Specials.
Simply Grilled Wahoo at Coyaba
A romantic and enchanting tropical garden atmosphere with twinkling lights, lush foliage and gurgling fountains welcomes you to relax and dine unhurriedly in the spacious open–air gazebo, or under nature’s canopy of dazzling stars.
Coyaba’s biggest fans – our culinary coalition is repeatedly impressed and delighted with Chef Paul’s uncanny talents. The vanguard of sophisticated cuisine, he has introduced a diverse array of original and novel ingredients to his tropical dishes, with a resolute creativity and imagination to turn the ordinary, into the extraordinary. It’s ‘the little things’ that always leave a lasting impression – and Coyaba seems to have thought of all of them. Karen’s absolutely mouth–watering oration of the evenings’ verbal specials, left us all in a state of culinary confusion – an out–and–out dining dilemma! Ardent admirers of the Classic Menu, we were literally swooning over what Paul had ‘cooked up’ this evening. Remember what I said about ‘ecstatic’?
Thai Spiced Crispy Yellow Tail Snapper
The Gazpacho Shot is full of lively and zesty flavours – just the ideal ‘shot’ to arouse your appetite and your taste buds.
An evening special of Conch Cannon Balls was yet another delight to add to our ever–growing list of new–fangled favourites! Perfectly formed ‘cannon’ balls of conch seasoned with a scrumptious blend of herbs and spices were deliciously crispy on the outside; and moist and tender on the inside. The pleasure only amplified as we plunged these tasty morsels into Rhubarb BBQ Sauce – with intense smoky flavours and a hint of tangy sourness characteristic of rhubarb; and Cognac Marie Rose Sauce – creamy and smooth with a touch of cognac that always complements any seafood dish.
A Romantic Dining Experience!
The Coyaba Style Lobster Bisque is quite possibly “the most perfect soup”. Voluptuous and earthy flavours enhanced with aged rum, rich cream and leek hay with a restrained but marvelous heat courtesy of the scotch bonnet pepper, and chunks of tender–sweet lobster that proffered an undisputed, “Wow”!
A light, creamy and absolutely “to–die–for” fish appetiser of Smoked Fish Mousse rendered fabulous smoky flavours and a wonderful contrasting ‘bitterness’ compliments of the endive. Clean and fresh tasting with tomato and cucumber there was very little vocal contribution here... but plenty of appreciative nods.
A Decadent Dessert - Banana Caramel Xango
A Classic Signature Menu offering, Coconut Tempura Shrimp is served in a deliciously crunchy edible bowl – this diner raved of the “wonderful flakey texture” of the coconut enveloping the perfectly prepared juicy and succulent shrimp. Casting a vote for the victorious dip turned into a condiment conundrum wavering between Barceló Honey Rum, Teriyaki Soy and Sweet & Sour sauces.
A quick diversion... Guava Sorbet was a delightful palate cleanser – sweet and invigorating.
Verbal Specials accounted for three out of four of our entrée selections – each and every one a positively remarkable gustatory delight that had all of us captivated and mesmerised from the moment the ‘opus’ left Karen’s lips. A Southwest Mole Spiced Duck Supreme was accompanied by a warm shitake vinaigrette, ackee, calallo, couscous and crispy fried ginger. . . undeniably an outstanding coming together and tremendous taste phenomenon. Grilling fish cooks the meat quickly retaining all the juiciness and flavour, and Coyaba’s Simply Grilled Turks and Caicos Wahoo was absolutely that – moist, flavourful and succulent. A whole–grain mustard and macadamia nut buerre blanc delivered an immediate and resolute “fabulous” not to mention the pleasurable portion size.
Intimate Garden Terrace Dining Areas
My “verbal” special deserves a paragraph all its own. Following Karen’s elucidation of this offering, all eyes rapidly gazed unswervingly to me, knowing full well that there was no one more worthy or fitting than I to take on this culinary commission. Before I go on, I would like to make it abundantly clear that Paul is a serious chef... his innovative, brilliant and ingenious creations are only augmented by his unrestrained and seemingly boundless ability to consistently tender a quality product. That said, he also sports an affable and entertaining sense of humour! Only Paul could take the traditional hamburger – and turn it into something of a gourmet caliber. Ergo – the Millionaire’s Burger – a grilled prime Angus beef patty; seared foie gras, lobster relish and peppered boursin on a toasted honey–wheat roll. But that’s not all – truffle mayonnaise, guava ketchup and champagne infused whole–grain mustard with saffron made this to be what I deem the epitome of Paul’s genius to turn the ordinary into the extraordinary – and as I sit here regurgitating this one–of–a–kind ‘burger’ experience, I have an irresistible compulsion to experience it again!
My husband’s Signature Menu offering of Tandoori Spiced Scottish Wild Salmon was flaunted as ‘nasty’ green curry. While the curry was commanding and intense, it did not overpower the salmon at all. Served with light and fluffy Jasmine rice, papaya, ‘loveapple’ (a.k.a. tomato) lime relish and a crispy spiced papadom, undeniably, this is certain to remain a classic.
A 2005 Joseph Phelp’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley paired particularly well with the robust duck flavours and my incredible Millionaire’s Burger; a definitive “red meat wine”. And from Oregon, a 2006 Torii Mor Pinot Noir was “fabulous” with the Wahoo and the Wild Scottish Salmon – it was argued that one might think a wine like this may possibly ‘fight’ the curry – but it was a good choice in the end, complementing the bold (not hot) curry spice.
Executive Chef and Owner Paul Newman
Chef Paul’s decadent flamboyance and unmitigated talent does not waver when it comes to dessert! A man after my own heart, he is passionate about chocolate – even having travelled to Valrhona, the foremost manufacturer of French chocolate near Lyon, France, where – just like fine wines and coffees, there is a grading system for chocolate. He acknowledges, “Chocolate is the most consumed food in the world”, and he uses seventy per cent Valrhona to prepare his Ultimate Petit Pot au Chocolate complete with the ultimate extravagance, a 24 karat gold leaf. Indulge in a Banana Caramel Xango – banana caramel cheesecake wrapped in a tortilla, deep–fried and rolled in cinnamon sugar or White Chocolate and Grand Marnier Crème Brulee – “totally addictive” and “flavours to–die–for”, this brulee’s delicate white chocolate struck the perfect match with just the right intimation of orange notes. Inspiring and alluring Dessert Martinis, Specialty Coffees, Dessert Wines, Ports, Cognacs and premium Caribbean Rums complete your epicurean escapade.
Coyaba’s Classic Signature Menu, enticing Evening Specials and imaginative and captivating Verbal Specials promise that your dining experience is always going to be a tantalising, original and provocative gourmet surprise! Are you excited yet?
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