Anacaona Reviewed November/December 2008
Anacaona Restaurant at the Grace Bay Club
The epitome of chic and the ultimate in al fresco sophistication, Anacaona embodies everything fine dining in a tropical paradise should be and more... much, much more.
The absolute in atmosphere, The Lounge is quite simply an oasis of Caribbean glamour, where cocktails and Caribbean infused tapas can be your indulgence in a fabulous outdoor ‘lounge’. Sink into gorgeous dark rattan loveseats and chairs with plush white cushions cosily grouped on tiered decks shaded by sailcloth ‘wings’ by day - and funky lighting and dazzling fire pits by night, just steps from Grace Bay Beach.
The Infiniti Bar is the hippest addition - touted as “The Caribbean’s Longest Bar”, 90 feet of sleek extends all the way to the dunes and the beach beyond gleaming after dark with sizzling electric blues.
Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras
The signature restaurant at the Grace Bay Club, Anacaona, is elegance personified. A striking and cosmopolitan theme of black and white presides in spectacular open-air palapas draped in white beneath sensational faux Baccarat black glass chandeliers. Dine at stand-alone tables or intimate cushion-filled booths, or beneath an incandescent night sky surrounded by Tiki torches and a sea of lush, tropical foliage while the waves lap the shore a few feet away.
Executive Chef Martin Davies creatively and artistically designs a ‘New World Caribbean’ menu that changes seasonally, with a definitive focus on fresh seafood. After all, isn’t that one of the reasons you’re here? Though the seasons may change, there are a few nonpareil culinary creations that have consistently transcended the seasonal boundaries - cuisine that has created its own loyal and devout following near and afar.
Roasted Australian Cannon of Lamb
Compliments of Chef Davies, we began with the ‘Amuse’ course, a tropically inspired and deliciously refreshing cantaloupe and ginger soup. The Amuse course is designed to excite and ‘amuse’ your palate; an opportunity for the Chef to demonstrate his culinary artistry prior to the onset of your meal. Exciting and amusing indeed, bursting with intense fruit flavours and complimented by the unmistakable aroma and dynamic taste of invigorating ginger.
Our culinary caucus was quick to discover that at Anacaona, exciting and amusing the palate does not end with the Amuse course, it is actually just the beginning... and at the risk of having to constantly repeat myself, when it comes to Chef Davies’ creations, impressive and remarkable presentation is a pre-eminent and foregone conclusion. This evening was indeed one of gustatory grandeur, with each and every exciting course propelling us to the point of delirious decadence... sending our palates into a virtual state of nirvana!
Mojo Grilled Caicos Lobster Tail
Chef Davies’ signature appetiser of Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, served atop a sweet and succulent Diver Scallop atop Banana Bread French Toast, accompanied by Crème Brulee and Vanilla and Mango Chutney, was an absolute and profound pleasure, an incredible combination of textures and flavours. Another perennial favourite is the Tuna Tempura Roll with Soba Noodle, Red Onion Marmalade, Fennel and Citrus Ponzu. This dish was impregnated with provocative aromas and a definitive ‘kick’, compliments of the pungency of wasabi, the savoury and delectable Red Onion Marmalade and the intense and exhilarating flavours of the Citrus Ponzu dipping sauce. The next extravagance, Napoleon Grilled Vegetables, married the undeniably fabulous combination of smooth, creamy Goat Cheese, the earthy flavour of Roasted Beets sliced carpaccio style and luscious, juicy strawberries, all enhanced by a richly intense Aged Balsamic and a scattering of crunchy Cinnamon Walnuts. And finally, an unforgettable Fire Roasted Sweet Potato Soup with Muscovy Duck Confit and Portabella Mushroom Ravioli. This dish rendered me positively speechless... a silky, sumptuous sweet potato soup brought a new taste dimension in every seductive spoonful... to-die-for morsels of sweet, tender duck confit coupled with meaty portabella mushroom flavours enveloped in a delicate ravioli... without a doubt, one of the most unique and complex unifications of tastes, outrageously sublime.
Chocolate Gourmandize
Certain things are just meant to be together... and while each on their own can be quite incredible, create the perfect merger and you have a marriage of foods that is quite simply, made in heaven. Take Gnocchi - those tender Italian dumplings, add the penetrating, piercing richness of creamy Italian Gorgonzola and smother it in a White Wine Cream Sauce with a Blue Cheese Glaze and Truffle Oil. Not a sound emanated from our table from the moment this divinity in a dish was served. In fact, we finally had to castigate one member of our culinary caucus for licking the plate! Viva Italia indeed! And finally, Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes... really, really crispy outside and mouth-watering and succulent inside, topped with Topika (fish roe) that delightfully burst on your tongue.
A frosty and refreshing palate cleanser of a Coconut Homemade Sorbet reminded us all of a Pina Colada, served in an apropos bamboo stem.
Anacaona is taking a notable turn from the hype of the typical tower presentation of cuisine... instead of ‘piling it up’ they invite their guests to be the ‘painter’ of their own canvas, having more freedom to experience and experiment with their plate de jour’s individual taste sensations. Fresh and inventive, our entrée selections eclipsed all our expectations, cuisine that incites you from the first bite, triggering your eyes to close as you languidly masticate, taking pleasure in every morsel, eluding the final act of ingestion just to savour and relish that exquisite taste on your palate as long as possible. After having experienced our previous appetizer courses, read on to see why I am now absolutely convinced that Chef Martin Davies is a wizard in the kitchen, a veritable culinary ‘conjurer’ fusing and uniting foods in a most extraordinary and unprecedented way, with charming and bewitching resolve.
Executive Chef Martin Davies
Perfectly grilled, my Prime Beef Tenderloin arrived with a divine Garlic Buttered Local 1/2 Lobster Tail, Sautéed Foie Gras, Sweet Potato and Goat Cheese Puree, Asparagus and a Grain Mustard Jus. If that isn’t an epiphany, I don’t know what is. My dining companion’s Roasted Australian Cannon of Lamb was extraordinary - beautifully rare and tender. The ‘cannon’ cut is the eye of the loin, very lean with virtually no fat. It was wonderfully paired with a Bacon Wrapped Diver Scallop, Foccacia Herb Crusted Gratin Potato and a rich and robust Rosemary Olive Jus. Chef Davies places great emphasis on seafood, including our local fish and this night it was South Caicos Red Snapper served with a Shrimp and Chorizo Ravioli, Creamed Spinach, Mai Tai Foam and Salsa Verde. The snapper simply melted in your mouth, delicate and flaky with the unexpected accompaniment of the ravioli, filled with luscious shrimp and the spicy, smoky flavours of chorizo. I have often enjoyed Anacaona’s Wild Chilean Sea Bass, always incredibly moist. This night was no exception - a gorgeous, thick cut was served with a sweet Sticky Mango Coconut Rice, a peppery Arugula Salad with a lively Black Bean Ginger Sauce and Baby Bok Choy.
We decided to leave our wine selections to our knowledgeable host, Murad Mohamad, Grace Bay Club’s Executive Assistant Manager of Food & Beverages. Anacaona’s wine list is carefully and expertly selected, with many wines appearing on the Wine Spectator Top 100. The first selection to complement our appetizer courses was a 2004 Firesteed Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon with rich berry flavours, hints of chocolate and coffee and a lovely, long finish. To enhance our entrée selections, also from Firesteed Cellars, we enjoyed a 1998 Citation Pinot Noir, complex with big berry flavours we noted a definite predominance of more fruit and less oak.
Anacaona at Grace Bay Club - The Lounge
Which brings us to the finale of the evening and what I anticipated would be the ‘prestige’ of our culinary conjurer, Chef Davies - his captivated audience eager and intrigued to see just what he would pull out of his toque for dessert! The table fell silent with the appearance of Chocolate Trilogy - a luxuriously light and airy chocolate mousse, a tantalizing chocolate ice-cream and the piece de resistance, Anacaona’s famous Chef’s Chocolate Gourmandize. An absolute legend in these parts... complete with an edible gold leaf it was redolent with richness, the smooth and voluptuous chocolate centre oozed profusely onto your plate, an outrageously lavish dessert!
Alas, this magical dining experience had come to an end... Anacaona is simply one of those singular and significant dining experiences that you pause and fondly reminisce over, long after your inevitable return to the real world. Abracadabra indeed!
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