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Matsuri Japanese Sushi Bar
Turks and Caicos Islands

Reviewed July/August 2005

matsuri japanese sushi barAncient Asian wisdom says... Sushi is an acquired taste, but once you acquire it... you're hooked for life! Well... maybe I just made that up, but it could be true. It's certainly true for all the sushi lovers I know. So for all of us addicts and for those about to get hooked, it's great that now in Providenciales we can get our fix right in the Graceway House. And note well that this is no low quality substitute for meeting an occasional late night craving, this is top of the line, second to none, World Class Sushi!

Chef Yoshi Ono, all the way from Tokyo Japan, has brought his native treasure to the Turks and Caicos to share with us. The Matsuri Sushi Bar is a cosy, modern sushi bar, set right in the heart of the island and open every day (except Sunday) for lunch and dinner. The "Bar" setting allows you to whet your appetite by watching Chef Yoshi prepare all your items fresh and with that amazing skill and speed that only comes from years of training and experience in this fish preparation business. For some sushi lovers, watching the preparation is half the attraction to the meal. Such knife skills are not common place and should not go unappreciated.

Have a comfy seat by the bar, order some Japanese Beer - my husband recommends the Sapporo - and be entertained by Chef Yoshi and his able assistant, while you try to decide on your order. The menu is full of very tempting selections and for those on special diets or just not into the "raw" aspect of sushi, you'll be pleased to know that there's plenty for you on the menu. More than half of the items are cooked! In fact, the menu is so expansive, that EVERYONE will find lots to choose.

For sushi experts, you find all the usual favourites: California Roll in more than one version, Nigiri (raw fish on a bed of rice) and Sashimi (the raw fish by itself). But this new restaurant has a brave and daring face, they have already got their own signature selections and some of them are a definite must try. The excitingly named Volcano and Spicy Dynamite both live up to their hype and you'll want to sample the local touches of Spicy Conch Roll and Tropical Eel. But I'm getting ahead of myself, meals must begin at the beginning...

So begin your meal with some Crab Cakes - deep fried crab with vegetables served with a creamy sauce - or try the Gyouza - the more traditional Japanese pot sticker, served with Yoshi's own special sauce. Then slow down a bit; as this is a sushi bar, you may be tempted to skip the salad and soup section of the menu, but you would be missing out on a treat. The Miso Soup - a traditional Japanese consomme - opens up your appetite and prepares you to consume; for that is the mission you are about to embark on. The Crispy Grouper Salad was also a great surprise! Deep fried grouper served with mixed vegetables, with a salad dressing you have just never tasted before. I have offered to pay for the recipe for the dressing, but the Chef insists on keeping it a secret - go figure.

Once you are prepared, order up some sake and let the main course begin. Sake is Japanese rice wine, traditionally served warm, but the cold version is currently growing in popularity and getting quite a bit of international recognition. Matsuri offers both, so take your pick, get a buzz and bring on the real sushi.

Our dinner table attempted to cripple the kitchen with our orders, but Chef Yoshi was well up to our demands. He timed it all perfectly, kept the sushi flowing smoothly and managed to meet the needs of the other guests at the bar as well. This was a gastronomic dining experience! Our Sushi Boats sailed in with accompanying seaweed salad, thinly sliced ginger and hot and spicy wasabi (use the latter carefully!! Very good for clearing out your sinuses, but when used appropriately will enhance the flavour of your sushi.)

The variety of sushi - raw and cooked - was phenomenal! Our favourites were: The Spring Rolls - that contrast between the crispy fried skin inside and the soft avocado on the outside just melts in your mouth. The Philadelphia is a must for cream cheese lovers!! That night I met someone who has only been on the island for one month, but has been to the Sushi Bar fifteen times!! She has had the Philadelphia Roll every single time! It's awesome!

My personal favourite was the Kamikaze - this is one of the cooked items. Deep fried snow crab and cucumber with avocado, scallion and roe. Again that contrast of textures and flavours first explodes in your mouth and then combines perfectly.

The Japanese may not be well known for their desserts, but the Matsuri Sushi Bar offers you Green Tea Ice Cream. I loved it, but this is not for amateur tea drinkers, this dessert has a very strong green tea flavour. There was also an interesting after taste - see if you can name it?

With nearly 100 items on the menu, and with the high quality of the items, you will keep coming back. Yoshi manages to keep everything fresh and to make as much use of locally available items like avocado and tropical fruits as he can. You may also keep coming back just to try your favourites over and over again. Whichever you choose, you'll love the easy ambience of Matsuri and the friendly expertise of the staff.

As the Japanese say at the beginning of a meal: "Itadakimasu." No, I didn't make that one up; you'll just have to go the Matsuri Japanese Sushi Bar to find out for yourself what it means.

By Karyn Williams-Sykes

Reprinted from "Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands July /August 2005."

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