Turks and Caicos Islands Visitor Destination Guide

You can almost picture the late, great, literary genius,   contemplating his next great masterpiece, boasting of landing ‘the big one’, much like the prized blue marlin that hangs above Hemingway’s Bar. Although Hemingway himself never actually visited these pristine shores, it’s easy to see how anyone could be inspired to greatness by their pure, paradisiacal beauty. 

Situated beachfront at The Sands Resort, the location is simply extraordinary and considered by many to be one of Mother Nature’s greatest accomplishments, Grace Bay Beach. Nestled in the dunes, willowy sea oats and towering palms caressed by the gentle trade winds create a casual and inviting atmosphere.  A classic boardwalk flanked by nautical rope coaxes you to the powder soft sand beach any time of the day. Mornings are mellow and uncomplicated as breakfast follows the rising sun; lunches are leisurely and laid back as the mixed scents of coconut suntan lotion and the mouth-watering aromas from the grill permeate the air. Evenings take on a completely enchanted ambiance, relaxing the senses as illuminated palms glow, Tiki torches twinkle and the rhythm of the waves creates a perfect and complete harmony. Dining at the edge of the deck, our front-row table afforded an unobstructed view of the breathtaking crescent of Grace Bay Beach, the dazzling lights a feast for the eyes for miles and miles.

The cuisine is Caribbean-inspired, an all-encompassing and comprehensive menu with a dash of ‘Ernest’, and a modicum of Hemingway-ism tributes to one of the icons of literary history compliments of owner, Terry Drummey.

Choosing appetizers, Blue Mussels sautéed in a light Dijon cream sauce was an evening special, and special it was! Deliciously tender mussels atop a lavishly rich and incredibly creamy sauce with a savoury side of grilled garlic baguette. Crab Cakes are a popular menu item, delicate and lightly browned, served on a bed of vinaigrette pasta. A tantalizing teriyaki dip accompanies the Black Angus Beef Skewers, tender and succulent with the cool contrast of crunchy carrots and peppers. Not for the timid of appetites, the Cuban Black Bean Soup could easily be a meal in itself. Alive with flavours, this hearty concoction soaks deep into the completely edible crusty bread bowl saturating the bread. Salads featuring Provo’s own homegrown lettuces, herbs and tomatoes also grace the appetizer offerings, and several conch specialties including Hemingway’s own famous version of conch chowder. Authentically prepared using the traditional, spicy island recipe.

‘A Moveable Feast’ From the Sea introduces Hemingway’s entrée selections. An abundance of selections from the sea, including ‘The Old Man and the Sea’, which features the fresh catch of the day. This particular evening, Grilled Snapper was topped with a baby clam cream sauce. The fish was perfectly prepared, firm and delicate, enhanced by the smooth and ambrosial combination of tastes complements of the snapper and clams. Grouper Vera Cruz, topped with a warm black bean tequila salsa packed a satisfying heat. Six delectable jumbo Butterflied Coconut Shrimp were deep-fried in Hemingway’s secret coconut mix … an indescribable dipping sauce brought this dish to ‘a whole new element’. Having experienced a very memorable Black Angus Filet on a previous visit to Hemingway’s, I had to see if perfection could be duplicated yet again. I was not to be disappointed! A generous 8 oz portion, perfectly grilled medium rare was served atop a decadently divine red wine and mushroom cream sauce.

A Saint Francis Merlot from the Sonoma Valley in California was the perfect wine selection. A spicy red, vibrant and intense with big blackberry flavours. 

Despite our main course offerings ending here, Hemingway’s Menu goes on and on ... salmon, fresh local lobster (when in season), mahi mahi, several pasta selections, grilled chicken curry and a Thai chicken stir fry … the Rack of Lamb is to die for. A great Kids Stuff Menu is augmented by ‘Available Always’ ~ a collection of traditional favourites, Caribbean Jerk marinated chicken and chips, fish and chips, chicken Caesar and the ‘Papa’ Burger all at a very palatable price point.

And for the finale … you knew it was coming, ‘To Have and Have Not’. When it comes to Hemingway’s desserts, you should most definitely ‘have’. Key Lime Pie, Crème Brulee, Cheesecake … the Fried Ice Cream is island famous and highly acclaimed! Pure, unadulterated decadence, vanilla ice cream is enveloped in a secret coating and lightly fried and dusted with a cinnamon powdered sugar and drenched in chocolate sauce. It went very; very well with my Belly Warmer coffee … the classic rum cake was moist and heavenly, with an unmistakable depth of flavour. Quite possibly, an ‘Immovable’ feast indeed!

‘The Sun Also Rises’ tops Hemingway’s Breakfast Menu with an extensive offering of essential breakfast fare and beyond with Toasted Almond Pancakes, Cinnamon Raisin French Toast, a noteworthy Eggs Benedict, The Ernest Omelette and Huevos Rancheros La Tequila ~ a scrumptious Cuban dish served in tortillas with tequila black bean salsa.

Midday … when it’s time for that brief respite from the sun, Hemingway’s offers some cool and energizing diversions ~ salads including the ever popular and refreshing Mango Shrimp Salad. Spicy jumbo shrimp served on a bed of Provo mixed greens, ripe, sweet mangos and veggies with a tantalizing mango chutney and a creamy dressing on the side. Chef Johnny Forbes shares this amazing salad recipe in the Providenciales Dining Guide, supplement to Where When How. Enjoy the classic Caesar on its own, or make it a meal with chicken, grouper or grilled fish. I highly recommend the Soft Grouper Tacos and the BBQ Chicken Quesadilla, having had enjoyed them on past afternoons spent squandered over lunch, steps from the beach.

So if you’ve been walking aimlessly down that seemingly endless stretch of Grace Bay Beach … drop in to Hemingway’s for breakfast or lunch … bare feet are welcome and expected!   For those of you anticipating an evening experience, reservations are strongly recommended … and perhaps a pair of sandals!