The dictionary’s definition for a “bistro” is “a small, informal restaurant, serving wine”. Well Coco Bistro is so much, much more than this. Long established as one of the restaurants you must visit when you arrive on Providenciales, it is now under new management - and boy is it GOOD! It’s always great when an old favourite, gets a brand new twist.
Chef Stuart Gray has spread his wings from the greens to the 
tropical garden Shangri-La that is Coco Bistro. A completely open air dining room, hidden away from the bustle of Grace Bay in a deep, green garden of coconut trees and tropical foliage; the lounge area takes you back to lazy days on the estate, with its rattan chairs, burnt orange cushions, scented candles and white toile fabric blowing the in gentle Caribbean breeze. You will be tempted to just sit right there and sip wine for the rest of the evening, but you would then be missing out on a great meal.
The Bistro’s leather bounded menus welcome you to an evening of excellent seafood dining. We had a very difficult time choosing our meals that night. One person wanted to have a selection of everything on the appetiser list and call that dinner. I guess we could come back on another night and do a selection of entrées. Not such a bad idea when you see the delicious items you have to choose from. Coco Bistro is definitely a restaurant you will have to visit more than once; I already know what I’m having the next five times. And just to keep your interest, there’s a section with “soon to arrive” items too.
After much ado about plenty, we made our choices and got started on dinner. On this menu, you will see a few things you recognise, like the wontons, but soon you will realise that there is nothing ordinary about any of it. Coco Bistro’s wontons are filled with crab meat and served with not one, not two, but THREE dipping sauces. There are sea scallops, but here the Sea Scallops arrive with coconut humus, mango slaw, fried tortilla and Piña de Gallo. This dish had a fantastic, strong cilantro flavour; I loved it - it reminded me of home! The scallops kept their gentle texture, while all the flavours of the meal were nicely blended for an undeniably Caribbean taste.
The purest amongst you would appreciate the Caesar Salad - the original, classic recipe, complete with bacon, Anchovy fillets, croutons and fresh grated parmesan. A salad with a kick. For the soup lovers, we can highly recommend the Conch and Garlic Potato Soup. A novel, up-market twist on the traditional chowder, this soup was topped with fresh Gruyere Cheese and giant croutons. Wonderful flavour, with tender pieces of Turks and Caicos conch. Showing great creativity, Chef Stuart’s Grilled Shrimp Satays are presented on sugar cane sticks. These come with banana chutney and a Jamaican curry dip. Don’t be scared; hearing Jamaican and curry in the same sentence may ward off the more conservative diners, but this dish was very flavourful and tangy, not too spicy.
We were eagerly awaiting the entrées now, after such a fantastic prelude. We only just had time to have a few sips of wine before our plates came out, delivered by the Bistro’s very friendly and efficient staff. They were quietly present whenever you needed them, knew all the answers and had very good suggestions for your dining pleasure.
The 18 oz, grain-fed Veal entrée almost blinded us! It was one of those pieces of meat you just want to pick up with your fingers and do a Fred Flintstone imitation with. At least an inch thick, the Chef still managed to keep the meat tender and moist. The Roast Loin of Lamb was also done to the guest’s desire, served with minted Pesto scallop potatoes in a delicate au jus. So, in case you meat lovers were worried, the Bistro does not only do seafood!
I stuck with my seafood anyway and my Ravioli of Conch and Red Snapper did not disappoint at all. It was creamy, tasty and slightly spicy, but I must admit that on my next trip I’m trying the Bouillabaisse. A duo of grilled Tiger Shrimp and Giant Scallops, this dish apparently tasted as good as it looked. And if anyone is feeling for just a touch more curry, the grain-fed Chicken and Tiger Shrimp in coconut curry, with crispy popadums must be what you are craving. A nice, Thai flavoured curry dish - little sweet and tangy lemon at the same time.
I may be restaurant reviewer, but I must confess that my least favourite part of a meal is dessert. If I’m dining with good company, (as I was that night at Coco Bistro), I hate that it’s the end of the evening. I hate that dessert is usually something sweet and therefore fattening! And I hate that I just can’t read a dessert menu as good as Coco Bistro’s and just have coffee! I’ve tried really hard, but I just can’t!
So Chocolate Crème Brûlée it had to be. This had a delicate caramel crust, which gave way to perfectly smooth, chocolate crème below. Sinful! I also wanted to try the Fried Banana with Mango Fritters, but my companion made that disappear before I got around to asking. It must have been very good indeed. Coco Bistro has an island wide, famous Coconut Pie, served with fresh whipped cream and a sweet sauce. It’s famous for a good reason... you must have a slice of that shredded coconut topping with the firm Graham cracker crust. Creamy... heavenly!
Chocolate lovers know that I always take special time to find the best chocolate on the menu for you. The Bistro has a Chocolate Terrine that is served with Grand Marnier; need I say more? Oh, there’s some vanilla wafer and raspberry coulis in there too, but did you read the part about the Grand Marnier?! With CHOCOLATE!!
Just to help you settle your guilt over these great desserts, Coco Bistro also has a good selection of coffees, with speciality blends and international favourites. I had the Jamaican Coffee - with Tia Maria - strong and rich Blue Mountain coffee, the perfect companion to my Crème Brûlée.
You know, the hardest part about writing restaurant reviews, is that you always get hungry while writing. All the smells and tastes of the evening just come crashing back on you and your mouth actually begins to water. If you are writing at midnight or one in the morning as I usually am, this can become a very difficult situation. The restaurant is closed and I don’t have any ravioli or Tiger shrimp curry lying around. I most definitely don’t have any of Coco Bistro’s sumptuous desserts in my refrigerator!
This restaurant is open for dinner every night, except Mondays... I wonder if they are open for breakfast...?
By Karyn Williams-Sykes
Reprinted from "Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands"
July/August 2006
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