The development of the island of Providenciales has been rapid and hectic in the last five years, but about 15 years ago, really not that long, places to eat-out here were few and far between. You had to wait for the delivery boat to get your basic supplies. All seafood was fresh from the fishermen, so bad weather or an ill fisherman meant no fish.
In October 1995 partners Clive Whent and Stuart Gray opened a classy little restaurant called “The Terrace”. The location was upstairs from what is now Scooter Bob’s, right where the Department of Culture and the Art Gallery are now located. Long time residents will recall it as the site of Jimmy’s Bar & Grill and prior to that Alfred’s Place. With the location improved with an outside dining terrace it became THE place for lunch or dinner, well known for creative seafood presentations including their Pecan Encrusted Conch and gourmet homemade ice creams. This was the beginning of Aqua Restaurant.
Today’s Aqua is located on what has become prime property: dockside at the Turtle Cove Inn, overlooking the Turtle Cove Marina, previously home to the Tiki Hut. Here you can watch the chartered fishing boats and executive, luxury yachts moor. Dining is out on the expansive terrace, under the twinkling stars of the Turks and Caicos sky, accented by pepper lights wrapped around the palm trees that grow through the wooden deck. Don’t worry, there’s covered seating as well, for those infrequent rainy nights that may threaten your Caribbean dining experience.
A few of those original traditions from The Terrace are still practiced at Aqua. Chef Clive retains his right of poetic license on fresh seafood. Remember to ask for the Chef’s Special when you visit… you just never know what the fishermen delivered that day and what heavenly delight the Chef has created.
Unknown to us, we were in for a treat to start off our dinner. When seated by our host, Mike Bell, he suggested the Spider Crabs, fresh from North Caicos, the “off-menu” surprise that night. Clive created a simple, seafood bouillabaisse to absolutely die for. Spider Crabs, jumbo shrimp and mussels steamed in a fragrant garlic sauce. A huge platter was placed in the middle of the table for us to make complete messes of ourselves with. Can you tell that I’m salivating with a Cheshire cat’s smile just remembering it? Who needed anything more to eat that night? We only ordered more food so that I could write a full review.
But seriously, we were off to a GREAT start and to our delight, there were more “fresh tonight” specials on offer - Spicy Grouper with Balsamic Vinegar Vegetables. The fish was moist and tender on the inside while seared on the outside and topped with mandarin salsa for a slight piquant touch. Very, very nice. I had the Blackened Lobster (also not always on the menu), served on a spicy, sweet mango chutney. This was a potpourri of Caribbean flavours - spicy, sweet, seafood, fresh. Everything you want from dining under the stars and on the water.
The printed menu is also excellent, with a great variety of selections. Appetisers include Smoked Conch, Shrimp Cakes, Conch Wontons and Spicy Soups. The entrees range from Jerk Pork Chops and Grilled Beef Tenderloin, to Vegetable Pasta and still a favourite Pecan Encrusted Conch.
Meat lovers don’t panic! It’s not all seafood and saltwater; there is meat at Aqua. It is in fact one of the best places to get a full Rack of Lamb, which was just inhaled by my carnivorous husband. I think it was served with scalloped potatoes and drenched in what the husband called “wonder sauce”; this was mumbled in-between heaping mouthfuls, so I’m not too sure, but rest assured it was excellent.
The kitchen at Aqua is so flexible, not only with its daily specials and fresh surprises, but they can also make your chosen appetiser (from the printed menu), into a main course. The Coffee Rubbed Tuna sounded so interesting that one of my dining partners wanted to try it as an entrée and got a nice, full sized plate. Served rare and with pink ginger and wasabi sauce, this item was scintillating.
One of my personal loves about this restaurant is their salads. Always using local leaves from the hydroponics farm here in Providenciales, the salads are HUGE, fresh and creative. Arugula, romaine, baby spinach with hard boiled eggs, black olives or blue cheese; topped with mandarin pegs, grilled shrimp, lobster or chicken or just about anything you ask for. These salads can be full, healthy meals, served with your choice of dressing.
When enjoying a wonderful meal, one must not forget the little things that also add to the experience, like the fresh baked bread that Aqua serves, accompanied by pesto sauce instead of the usual pat of butter. This you must try for yourself… a totally unique gastronomic experience.
Another unique selection at Aqua, is Chef Clive’s version of Homemade Apple Pie. Each serving is baked like an individual, mini pie (so you don’t get a slice from the traditional larger pie), and served a la mode. Drizzled with cinnamon-caramel sauce and of course with vanilla ice cream; is there another flavour for apple pie a la mode? I think not!
Also on the menu is my favourite - Crème Brûlée - Perfect caramelised hard-top with soft custard-cream dessert below. Try the Chocolate Brownie with strawberry coulis and your choice of homemade ice cream. A subtle juxtaposition of tartness with sweet. And there were many more tempting sensations on the dessert menu, but my waistline was begging for a chance to recover from those Spider Crabs, never mind the grilled lobster. Restaurant reviewing is definitely not for the super model.
Aqua is open seven days a week, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There are nightly themes: Peking Duck Night, Mussels Night, Sushi Sashimi Night and on Sunday they serve Brunch until 2:00 pm. So whether you dine off the excellent menu, or you give the Chef’s fancy a try, you simply cannot go wrong with an Aqua night.
Karyn Williams-Sykes
Reprinted from "Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands"
November/December 2006
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